We need more room in our house. Should we build up or expand out?
It’s generally cheaper to put a second story addition on an existing house than it is to expand out into the yard because you do not have the expense of another foundation. However, consider these variables before making your final decision:
- Will your present foundation support a second addition? Whether it is a perimeter concrete foundation or slab, you will need the local building inspector’s approval first. As a rule of thumb, a perimeter concrete foundation must be 8 inches wide at the top to support a two-story house.
- If you have to reinforce your foundation before you can build up, compare those costs to a new foundation for expanding out.
- Are there height limits in your area that will restrict addition of a full second story?
- Will a more visible second story fit with the neighborhood?
- Will your neighbors approve a second story? In some areas you may have to get their signed approval before you can add on.
- If you build up, you may have to add bracing to the existing house’s walls, which means removing part or all of the siding.
- Building up means removing the roof overhead for several weeks, and even if it has never once rained in your area before, it will after the roof is off.
- Expanding out into the yard reduces your yard space.
- You have to get equipment into your yard or dig the foundation ditch by hand. Concrete can be pumped to sites that a truck cannot reach.
- The house must remain a certain number of feet away from the neighbor’s property. Check if your outward expansion will meet these setback requirements.
- If you add a bathroom in the expanded-out addition, what are problems surrounding the waste line connections under the house?
How much will it cost to add on?
Labor and material costs vary too widely from city to city, from state to state, and from region to region to give a definitive response to this universal question. But as a very loose guide, plan on paying $80 to $120 per square foot for remodeling construction and $100 to $150 a square foot for new construction. You will be able to refine this figure significantly once you enter into serious discussions with a contractor.
Should I hire an architect?
For larger projects we strongly recommend that you hire an architect or designer before you hire a contractor. Why?
- You’ll save money. A complete, well-defined plan means the contractors you eventually contact can bid accurately and competitively, typically saving you more than the added cost of the design work.
- You’ll improve quality control during the construction process because an independent third party—your designer—will be monitoring the progress of the work.
- You’ll get a better design. The benefits of excellent design input should not be underestimated. You’ll be living with the results for a long time; don’t shortchange yourself.
There are alternatives, depending on your own expertise and the amount of time you can devote to overseeing the construction project. You may opt to buy an hour or two of a contractor’s time to help you define your own thinking on the project, to pull all the living spaces into a cohesive form, then finalize these ideas with your contractor.
But keep in mind that plans must be drawn, submitted, and approved by the building inspector’s office before you can begin a project. Depending on the project’s complexity, decide who will draw the plans: you, your contractor, or the architect.
Another value of an architect is that he or she can not only draw the plans and shepherd them through the approval process, but also can oversee all the construction, ensuring it is done right.
Can I convert my porch into another room?
Structurally, such conversions are generally quite straightforward. But it will change the appearance of your house and will remove the age-old link between the house and the neighborhood of people sitting outside and talking with passing neighbors. To be fully aware of all the options that such a change might encompass, including types of windows, lighting, plumbing, and exterior finish, talk to an architect first. The architect will invariably have a wealth of ideas for you to draw on.
Should I buy an existing house or have one built?
Building instead of buying is not for everyone. Having a home custom built offers many advantages. By working with an architect, you will have an efficient and beautiful home that works for you and fits the building site. On the other hand, building your own home can be a very stressful experience as well as a rewarding one. You may spend more money than if you simply chose a pre-built or existing home. Building is not a perfect science, but a learning experience. You may not reap immediate resale value relative to your expense if the right buyer and appraiser are not involved in the sale. So, if you have found that perfect piece of property on which you would like to build, contact a local architect or designer who is experienced with design and construction issues in your area and can also provide initial site evaluation services. Keep your design and expectations simple and efficient. Your construction costs can vary significantly depending on many factors, which may include your region, the site, the design, local construction activity, as well as other factors.
What should I ask my contractor?
You will want to find out how busy he is and how he intends to supervise your house. Will he do it himself, or rely on a superintendent? How many jobs does each person run? What type of contract does he usually use: cost plus, lump sum, etc.? Is he used to building homes of the quality you hope to build? Most builders have some standard building products and methods they insist on. What are his, if any? What type of warranty does he have? Ask about his license and insurance and that he provide you copies of them. References should be checked. Did he finish on time and budget or within reason? Was he reasonable to work with? How often did he have job meetings? Did he keep a clean and safe job site? Why should you choose him over his competitors? Look at samples of work and ask about budget ranges for certain types of projects.
Can I be a self-contractor on my house?
Being a homeowner/contractor is a step taken by many with the idea of saving money. You may save money, but you must weigh that against the innumerable headaches and delays you will incur as a presumably inexperienced builder. You need to line up a crew of people who know what they are doing, someone to oversee that crew every hour, pay them, and complete all the tax forms. You have to get all the permits sufficiently in advance that work does not stop while you wait for a permit. You have to line up all the subcontractors: electrical, plumbing, painting, drywall, etc. It is almost a full-time job unless you have a construction superintendent you trust to do all this work on his or her own. Here’s one contractor’s view:
“I believe the best thing you can do is to pay a contractor as a consultant. That way you make the calls, etc., but he supplies the subs and suppliers. I charge 20% on my contracts and often I can buy materials and subs for less than you and add the 20% and still be under you. You will find there is a difference in pricing between a homeowner and a contractor. Suppliers expect numerous projects from me a year and only one from you. As most discounts are based on annual volume, it all makes a huge difference. What if an employee is injured on your job—make sure you are paying all required insurance on each of your employees. Sales tax as well if your state requires it. Also make sure you have appropriate insurance for the project. You will want a builder’s risk package as well as a general insurance umbrella in case someone accidentally gets injured on the site [not a worker]. You can do it, just protect yourself and your assets by doing it right. If you choose not to hire a consultant, make sure you seriously check out referrals on everyone that might work on your job and contact your local building department to learn what is required. Talk to your insurance agent.”
How much will it cost to build a new house? Remodel?
Prices vary widely, as you can imagine, for materials and labor. How large and complex the project is, your choice of fixtures, all weigh heavily. For very rough calculations, plan on $110 to $150 a square foot for a new house, from the foundation to roof and everything inside. Remodeling costs are lower, again very generally from $80 to $120 a square foot. If you have several bids that are far apart in price, go over every detail with the contractor, looking to see what is different and what might be left out of one bid.
How do I get ugly old ceramic tile off my bathroom walls and floor?
Very carefully. For the floor, get a broad chisel or brick cutter, hammer, gloves, and eye protection and start chipping away. Do as little damage to the wood subfloor as possible.
How you remove ceramic tile from walls will depend on the type of walls.
- Plaster: Chip the tile off and then repair inevitable damage to the walls with new plaster or spackle.
- Drywall: Rather than chipping tile forever, it is often faster to simply pull the tile-covered portion of drywall away from the studs in large sections, then put up new drywall. If the tile only goes halfway or so up the wall, cut through the wall above the tile and then just replace that lower section. When putting up new drywall, make sure it is water-resistant blueboard, especially behind the tub.
My bathroom walls and ceiling keep getting mildew on them. How can I get rid of it?
The number one problem associated with mildew is lack of ventilation. Bathrooms naturally generate a lot of moisture that clings to the ceiling and walls unless it is quickly vented following a bath or shower. Warm air and moisture are perfect conditions for mildew, mold, and who knows what else.
If you don’t have a bathroom vent, put one in. It’s much less expensive than potential repairs to the walls, ceiling, and possibly even the house structure. Be sure to vent the air to the outside, not into the attic, where the moisture will only generate new problems.
An open window will help remove moisture, but not as effectively as a vent. If a vent is out of the question for the time being, wipe everything down after a shower or bath. Use a squeegee to wipe down the shower walls, and sponge off the shower door or curtain. You can use a variety of sprays to kill mildew while cleaning the walls.
When you repaint your bathroom, use latex paint, which contains ingredients that help minimize mildew growth.
How do I replace a toilet?
Remove the existing one by first shutting off the supply water valve, located near the floor behind the toilet. Remove the toilet tank lid, flush the toilet, then sponge out all the remaining water in the tank.
Disconnect everything on the toilet: the supply hose to the tank, the toilet tank (if it is a two-piece system), and finally the nuts from the flange bolts on each side of the toilet. They are often underneath plastic caps on each side, which you just lift off.
Now, lift the old toilet up and off the closet flange. Set the toilet on some rags to catch any spilled water and then carry or drag it away. Scrape off any wax around the closet flange. Turn the new toilet upside down on some rags or a bathmat to protect the finish. Press the wax ring firmly over the toilet’s drain hole. If the toilet is being installed over a new tile floor that has raised the floor level 1/4 inch or so, use a wax ring with a vinyl sleeve on it that extends into the closet flange. Some plumbers like to put on two wax rings for extra precautions against a leak.
Turn the toilet right side up and set it carefully on the closet flange so that the flange bolts slip through the holes in the toilet base. Sit on the toilet and rock back and forth slightly until it is firmly seated. Tighten the flange bolt nuts until the bowl does not rock, but be very careful not to over tighten, which can crack the toilet bowl. If that happens, you will have to get a new one.
Put the new tank on the bowl, following the assembly instructions. Generally, there are two bolt holes in the bottom of the tank. Install the rubber gasket flange between the tank and toilet, then bolt the tank to the bowl. When the bolts are snugged tight against their rubber washers, reconnect the water supply line, turn on the water, fill the bowl, and check for any leaks.
Can I have a window in my shower?
You can, but be prepared for possible trouble. Water getting between the window and the interior wall is the problem. It may lead to wood rot and can also cause tile or other surrounding finish material to separate from the underlayment. A better solution is to install a glass or acrylic block window flush with the wall that is sealed and caulked all around its edges. Some block windows have a small awning window at the top that opens to allow shower steam to escape.
Tub surrounds can be cut to accommodate a window, and some include special vinyl wraps to fit around the window and seal all openings.
You might also put a small shower curtain across the window to keep water off it. But whatever you choose, keep all joints between the window frame and the wall caulked, and sponge the area dry after each use.
Why is the water pressure in my house so low?
Corroded galvanized iron pipes are a common cause of low water pressure. If you live in an older house, it may well have galvanized iron pipes that have corroded inside over the years. The accumulated corrosion eventually restricts the water flow. Fortunately, there is usually a solution.
The corrosion primarily builds up behind restrictions in the pipe, such as the angle valves under the sinks and the shower or bath valves. To repair, shut off the water to the house and remove the valves. Use two pipe wrenches, one to turn the valve and the other to prevent the pipe from turning. Once the valves are off, you will likely see the hard, corroded material in the pipe. Chip it out with a screwdriver and hammer, and clean it out the best you can. Reconnect the valves and run water to flush out any debris.
Showers and baths are more problematic because the valves are usually in the wall. If you have an access panel, consider yourself lucky. Otherwise, you will have to break out the wall, remove the valve and clean the pipe, then patch the wall. But before you do that on a shower, check that it’s not just a clogged showerhead. Remove it and clean out any deposits that might have accumulated in there.
How do I fix loose or broken ceramic floor tiles?
Remove the loose tiles. If the adjoining ones are also loose, scrape out the grout around them and then carefully pry them out, too. Slip a narrow putty knife under them to break loose any remaining mastic. Scrape the underside of the tiles and the underlayment to remove old mastic, then put fresh mastic on the underlayment and press the tiles into place. Allow the mastic to dry for 24 hours and then regrout the tiles.
Cracked or broken tiles are removed and replaced in the same manner. Cut the grout around the tiles first, then pry out the broken pieces, clean the underlayment, put the new tile down in fresh mastic, and regrout.
Where can I find a corner shower stall?
Finding a corner shower stall today is relatively easy—you can buy them online, from big home-improvement stores, or from specialized bathroom retailers. The real challenge is choosing the right type, size, and supplier for your budget and space. Below is a detailed, practical guide (with direct product options and links) to help you understand exactly where to look and what to buy.
Best places to buy a corner shower stall
- Major home improvement retailers
Large retailers are often the most reliable starting point. Stores like The Home Depot, Lowe’s, or European equivalents such as Dedeman carry a wide range of prefabricated shower kits.
– You’ll find complete “shower kits” that include walls, base, and doors.
– Common sizes range from 32×32 inches to 48×48 inches.
– Many models are in stock and ready for fast delivery.
- Online marketplaces
Websites like Amazon, eBay, and regional sites offer hundreds of options.
Advantages:
– Huge variety (glass, acrylic, frameless, folding doors)
– Competitive pricing
– Customer reviews to guide your choice
Drawbacks:
Shipping costs can be high for bulky items
You may need professional installation
- Bathroom specialty stores
If you want higher quality or custom designs, check specialty brands such as:
– MAAX
– Vigo Industries
– DreamLine
These companies focus specifically on bathroom fixtures and often provide:
– Better materials (tempered glass, premium aluminum frames)
– Modern designs (frameless or neo-angle enclosures)
– Longer warranties
Is it worth it to refinish an old tub or sink?
Results are mixed on refinishing a porcelain-on-iron bathtub or sink yourself. The process generally involves cleaning the tub, scrubbing it down with muriatic acid, then applying the refinish coats. Several people have said the finish they applied began peeling off within a year or two. On the other hand, some people have reported good results with one brand in particular, called the Miracle Method for both tubs and sinks.
If in doubt but you want to keep that old tub or sink, call in professional refinishers and ask for references. Be sure to visit those references and ask how long the finish has been in place.
After I put wainscoting on the bathroom walls, my toilet won’t fit. What do I do now?
The standard installation location for a toilet drain is centered 12 inches from the finished wall. If you add to the wall, you may have a problem. Fortunately, you can obtain an offset flange adapter at most large home supply stores and certainly through a plumbing supply shop, which you can find in the Yellow Pages. It fits right on the existing closet flange that the toilet is bolted to. On the toilet, place a new wax ring with a vinyl protrusion that fits into the closet flange.
What types of bathtubs are best?
A standard tub is 5 feet long, 14 inches high, and 3 feet wide. Tubs of all styles, including steel, cast iron, and acrylic, are commonly made in this size to meet remodeling requirements.
Steel tubs are generally formed by pressing and drawing them in forms to the desired shape. The tub is then sprayed with an enamel coating and fired in a furnace. Steel tubs outwardly appear much like enameled cast-iron tubs. Steel, however, flexes more than cast iron and as a result the enamel can chip more easily. But steel tubs are lighter.
Cast-iron tubs are formed by pouring molten iron into molds. When cool, the iron is smoothed and then an enamel powder is sprayed on and fired to provide the finished layer. Because iron is heavier and more rigid than steel, it resists chipping. The downside is that cast iron tubs are heavy and difficult to maneuver, particularly into a second story bath.
Cast polymers include such standbys as cultured marble, cultured onyx, and cultured granite. They are formed by molding a mixture of ground marble, onyx, or granite and polyester resin into the desired shape, such as a tub, sink, or shower. Because these products can be made in small shops anywhere in the country, quality can vary significantly. Check that they meet quality standards specified by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI).
