Building and Remodeling

Do I have to vent my dryer outside the house, and if so, how do I do it?

Yes, it should be vented to the exterior of the house. Do not vent a dryer into an attic because the warm, moist air will increase the level of humidity there, which could lead to moisture damage and wood rot. Whenever possible, locate the dryer closest to where the vent pipe will exit the house. Use flexible 4-inch pipe or smooth sheet metal, but note that in some areas flex pipe is no longer permitted. Kits for fastening and extending the pipe through walls are available at hardware stores. Vent pipes can go down through the floor as well as up. If the pipe goes into a basement or crawl space, continue it to the nearest foundation vent.

Why does my washing machine drain overflow when the water is pumped into it?

There are a couple of possibilities:

The house drain line may be partially plugged with roots, causing the rapid flow of water to back up in this restricted area.
The pump on the washing machine may be just too powerful for the size of your drain, throwing more water than the pipe can handle.

Solutions aren’t easy. Installing a larger drain line is expensive. If possible, let the washer drain into a nearby large sink. Or trade in your washer for one with a less powerful pump.

Basements

My basement is just bare foundation walls and concrete floor slab. How do I turn it into a room with walls, ceiling, and flooring?

Here are the basic steps for turning a basement into a comfortable room.

Most importantly, ensure that the basement will be as dry as possible by taking the following steps:
Slope the ground around the house away from the foundation, so water runs away.
Make sure downspouts carry water well away from the house.
If still having basement water problems, dig a ditch around the house down to the footing and install drainpipes, sloped to carry water away.
Coat the foundation exterior with waterproofing material before filling in the ditch again. For concrete that has not been treated or waterproofed before, one of the best treatments is Xypex (https://www.xypex.com/). Applied inside or outside, it penetrates the concrete 12 inches or more as it expands and seals pores.
Inside, as extra precaution against flooding, install a drainage ditch next to the foundation wall. Direct the ditch to a sump and sump pump at the low end of the basement slab.
Construct walls
Some homeowners attach furring strips (1-by-3 lengths of wood) to the concrete foundation walls and then attach drywall to that. That’s the hard way. The easier way is to build a 2-by-4 stud wall on the basement floor and then raise it into place.
Use pressure-treated wood for the sole (bottom) plate. Build the wall with just a top plate, not adding a cap (double top) plate at this time. That way, when you raise the wall, it will clear the ceiling joists. After the wall is up, install the cap plate. Carefully measure the stud lengths and plate thicknesses in advance so all will fit exactly.
Space the wall out 3 or 4 inches from the foundation wall. Once the wall is up, slip the cap plate in place between the top plate and the bottom of a floor joist. It should fit just snugly enough to hold the wall in place. Plumb and align the wall at this time.
To anchor the wall at the top, drive decking screws up through the top plate and the cap plate into a ceiling joist.
To anchor the sole plate to the floor, buy or rent a Hilti powder-actuated fastener to shoot hardened nails through the plate into the concrete slab. You can also glue the sole plate to the floor.
Wiring
While the studs and ceiling joists are exposed, drill holes for all wiring, pull the wire through, and connect all outlets and switches.
Do the same in the floor joists and install all lighting boxes.
Ceiling
Box in and drywall any exposed pipe, ducts, and other obstacles that you cannot move. Alternatively, leave all ducts and piping exposed and paint them bright colors, as if part of the basement décor.
You must meet minimum ceiling height requirements. Ask your local building inspector what they are. If a pipe or girder is too low, you may have to build a wall around it. Turn the space into a closet.
Install drywall on the ceiling.
If you want to minimize noise coming through the floor from above or below, install two layers of drywall. After the first layer is up, run aluminum resilient channel strips (available at drywall outlets) perpendicular to the joists. Then hang a second layer of drywall from the channel, with screws going only into the channel, not the joists. That way, sound won’t travel through the screw to the floor above. The 3/4-inch dead air space between the two layers will significantly reduce sound transmission.
Insulation
Place batt insulation in the stud walls, with the vapor retarder facing the warm side of the room.
If your basement is going to be heated, you don’t need insulation between the floor joists; let the warm basement air help heat the floor above.
Do not cover the exposed foundation wall with a plastic vapor barrier thinking this will stop moisture in the concrete from moving into the room. The moisture will only condense on the plastic and run onto the floor. Similarly, do not staple plastic over the stud wall. Moisture vapor has to pass through the wall.
If your basement is too humid, use a dehumidifier to remove water vapor.
Flooring

Some moisture will inevitably either collect on the concrete floor or work its way through the floor from the ground underneath. To prevent moisture from subsequently working its way into your finished floor, cover the slab with 6-millimeter plastic sheeting and tape down all seams.

Over the plastic, lay sleepers, which are 1-by-4s or 2-by-4s that are spaced apart 16 inches on center (from center of one board to center of next). Instead of nailing them down, cut them to fit snugly between the walls. Place spacers every 3 or 4 feet between the sleepers to keep them aligned. Over the sleepers, lay down 5/8-inch plywood subfloor. Use drywall screws to attach plywood to sleepers.

Other Flooring

Ceramic tile: Tile flooring can be laid directly on a slab, if the surface is smooth and dry.
Vinyl tile: You can also lay this directly on the concrete, but it will be a hard and possibly cold floor. Any moisture will pop it loose. It is preferable to lay it on a plywood subfloor.
Carpeting: This too can be glued directly to a slab, but putting it on a subfloor is better.
Laminated wood: It can be “floated” on the concrete floor by first putting down the plastic sheeting, then laying the laminate so it ends up wedged in place between the sole plates of the surrounding stud wall.
Hardwood floor: This type of flooring must be placed on plywood subfloor as described above because it is most susceptible to expansion and contraction from moisture and heat changes.

I want to build some bedrooms in my basement. Are windows required?

Absolutely. If there is a fire, people have to get out quickly. The code requires that at a minimum the bottom of the window be no more than 44 inches from the floor and that the actual opening be a minimum of 20 inches wide and 24 inches high. Larger is better, not only to make escape easier but also to allow firefighters packing tools and breathing equipment to enter the area quickly.

The crawlspace under my house smells like mold, and the ground is wet for much of the year. How can I fix this?

First, you need good cross ventilation under the house so air will circulate freely. Stagnant air is holding moisture, creating condensation, mold, and potentially serious wood rot problems. Check that all vents are unobstructed. Repair any torn vent screens so animals don’t move into the crawl space. If you don’t have sufficient vents, you should add more.

Second, cover the ground with black plastic sheeting. This will trap and hold the ground moisture under it instead of allowing it to rise to the floor joists. Tape or weight all overlapped joints down, including along the foundation, so no gaps exist.

I have standing water in my crawl space. How can I get rid of it?

The best solution is to prevent water from getting under the house in the first place. That’s because moisture causes problems with wood, and water may excessively soften the ground around the foundation. To keep water out, dig ditches around the high sides of the house down to the footings. Install gravel and drain lines. Slope the lines about 2 inches per 10 feet to carry water away from the house. Direct the water to a natural drainage, to the street, or to a French drain in the yard. Before you backfill, place waterproof membranes against the foundation wall. Of course, make sure that water from downspouts is directed well away from the house at all times.

A sump pump is another answer. The best choice is a completely submersible pump with a float arm that activates the pump as water rises to a certain height in the sump. But buy the sump pump first, available at home supply centers. The size of the sump, which is the hole that collects the water, will be determined by the size and type of sump pump you have.

Dig the sump at the low end of the crawl space (or basement), where most of the water collects. One easy way to do this is to buy a plastic bucket large enough to readily hold the pump and not block the arm movement, which must float free. Drill holes all around the bucket’s sides and bottom, and set it on some pea gravel in an appropriately sized hole. Backfill around the bucket with pea gravel also. If necessary, do some ditching in the crawl space to direct water to the sump.

Since the pump needs electrical power, an outlet protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter is needed nearby. Finally, attach PVC piping to the pump to carry the water out of the crawl space to the storm drains, a natural drainage away from the house, or a French drain in the yard.

How can I waterproof my basement walls?

In new house construction, be sure there are drains installed at footing level, sloped between 1 and 2 inches per 10 feet, to direct water away from the house. As you backfill the trench, apply waterproof membranes to the foundation wall.

In an existing house, you can still dig drainage ditches and install waterproofing membranes or chemicals as above. To waterproof from the inside, apply a coating of Xypex (https://www.xypex.com/), which will penetrate up to 12 inches of previously untreated concrete. If other waterproofing chemicals have been previously applied, it will be less effective. Once Xypex penetrates, it expands and seals the concrete pores. It was designed originally to work from the inside out on foundation walls, but works equally well from the exterior.

While chemicals will help block water movement through concrete, they do not stop the hydrostatic pressure of groundwater, which is constantly pushing against the foundation wall. Installing perimeter drain lines relieves that pressure.

I have concrete blocks for my basement wall and I don’t want to bother putting drywall over them. What else can I do?

First, seal the block to keep out moisture, then consider quick coverings such as paint, drywall plaster, stucco, or Z-brick.

There’s a post in the middle of my basement that supports the floor joists above. Can I get rid of the post somehow?

Such posts usually support a beam that runs beneath the midpoint of the joist span to prevent sagging. The post can be removed only if a new and stronger beam is installed. The new beam must be designed to carry the weight of the floor above over a greater span. To determine the beam’s required size and span limit, you should ask a structural engineer to calculate the load requirements. Wood glue-lams (laminated beams) are widely used for such purposes but are deep, often interfering with headroom. An alternative is a steel I-beam, which can then be boxed in to hide it.

Water fills up in my basement window wells and then runs inside. Help!

You need drains in the wells. Either the soil won’t drain or the groundwater level is so high that there is no place for water to flow. In either case, dig a drainage ditch underneath the window well and install drainpipes that are sloped to carry the water away from the house. Clean out the well at least 6 inches below the window level and backfill with small gravel to within 3 inches of the window ledge. Caulk any cracks or openings around the window. Make sure downspouts carry water several feet away from the house.

What can I do about all the humidity in my basement?

First, install a dehumidifier. Second, consider a thermostatically controlled fan to blow moist air out. But there are other problems to look for at the same time. One homeowner wrote Message Boards that he did not have a water leakage problem, just a major humidity problem. In looking for the problem, he removed some sheetrock near the ceiling/wall junction in the basement and discovered there were no blocking, no caulking, and no insulation at the rim joist area. He could feel a draft of moist air rising through the concrete blocks and entering the house, pushing humidity up.

Poor attic insulation made the situation even worse. When the central heat system was on, the warm air rose into the attic. This airflow in turn drew air from the rest of the house, including moist air from the uninsulated area by the basement rim joist. Air rising into the attic worked like a vacuum pump to suck air from everywhere, including the outside. He corrected the problem by updating the attic insulation and caulking and insulating all cracks around the rim joist and basement walls.

I want to put down some flooring in my basement, but the concrete surface is rough and not too level.

You can purchase self-leveling mortar at home supply centers. The mortar is mixed with water and then spread with a squeegee-like tool that has adjustable nubs on one edge to smooth and level the mortar. Spread the mortar over the floor, work it back and forth as it levels itself, and then let it cure.

Another way is to lay down 1-by-4 or 2-by-4 sleepers on the slab, then put down a plywood subfloor on the sleepers.

Building Materials

How would you compare the qualities of plywood and OSB?

Plywood generally holds nails and screws better than oriented strand board. In some areas OSB is not allowed as roof sheeting because of nail pullout problems. Plywood also holds up better if it gets wet.

However, OSB is usually less expensive and is widely used where nail pullout is not a problem and there is a minimal chance of it getting wet. If you have any doubts about which one to use, find a scrap piece of each and pound a few nails in, pull them out, and decide for yourself which will work best for your application.

When framing a house, should I use 2-by-4s or 2-by-6s?

Standard framing is with 2-by-4s, which are less expensive than 2-by-6s. But 2-by-4s must be spaced 16 inches on center while 2-by-6s often can be spaced 24 inches on center, so you use a few less. Additionally, 2-by-6s allow you to place higher R-value insulation in the walls, which will reduce your heating and cooling costs. However, there are some hidden costs to using 2-by-6 framing, such as wider doorframes and wider window sashes.

Decks and Patios

What kind of wood should I use for my deck?

Here’s a quick rundown on some of the more common types of wood used for deck surfaces.

Redwood: Most common on the West Coast, where prices are still within range. One big value is that it is highly rot-resistant and does not need to be treated with wood preservatives. But sealers with UV protection will help maintain the wood’s natural appearance. Redwood is soft, but weathers to beautiful gray in sunlight. May darken in damp, wet places. Can be lightened by washing with Clorox and water. A pressure hose cleans it very well and restores color.
Cedar: Also popular on the West Coast, and it’s rot-resistant. Weathers to beautiful soft gray. It is soft and splinters easily. Treating cedar and redwood with penetrating sealers will maintain the wood’s natural look longer.
Ipe: Often known as Brazilian walnut or ironwood, it is hard wood that weathers beautifully.
Mahogany: Also, a hard wood, it resists rot and can be allowed to weather or be treated.
Pressure-treated pine: This wood will weather to an attractive gray, and it’s cheaper than most other decking woods. It comes in different grades, so select the top grade for the decking material.

Whatever type of wood you use for the deck, use pressure-treated wood for the substructure, or structural wood that has been carefully treated with waterproofing solutions. Otherwise, the joists will rot out well before the deck needs replacing. Put the deck boards down with deck screws, not nails.

Do I need to apply a sealer to my deck?

It depends on the type of wood. Redwood and cedar do not need it because they are so naturally rot-resistant. But sealers with UV protection will help keep the wood looking natural, rather than turning dark or gray, depending on the amount of sunlight on the deck. With woods other than redwood or cedar, use a penetrating sealer, even on pressure-treated wood, to reduce its tendency to crack and splinter. Look for “penetrating” specifically on the can of sealer. These sealers do much better than cheaper sealers that just lay a thin film on the wood.

What about plastic wood for decks?

Plastic wood has several good qualities: Polymer decking will last forever, is maintenance free, and is easy to install. Its tongue and groove form gives it greater rigidity over longer spans. In a year or so, plastic wood will fade to an even tan color. Also, it is made from recycled materials, which benefits the land. The chief drawback is the plastic appearance. Also, if a damaged board must be replaced, all boards up to that one will have to be removed because of the tongue and groove construction.

I can’t decide: brick patio or wooden deck?

Part of the decision is the finished look you want in your yard, whether it will be the more formal brick or the more casual wooden deck appearance. Brick can be laid directly on sand, which makes it a little more casual, or it can be laid on a concrete slab and mortared in place for a more lasting and formal appearance. Brick readily conforms to any curves or angles you wish to apply, as well as a great number of patterns.

Wood decks are generally quite linear, running the length of the boards. Changing the direction of the run, however, can easily break up long, straight lines. Decks go down relatively quickly. And, of course, if you are building several feet off the ground, a deck is vastly easier than trying to construct a support system for a brick patio. Wood decks require some maintenance, such as sealing, cleaning, and repairs to damaged wood. Both brick and wood can be slippery and mossy in wet, damp areas.

I have seen concrete in lots of different patterns and I was told that the patterns were stamped in. Where can I find these stamps?

Concrete stamps can be purchased from specialized decorative concrete suppliers, major home improvement retailers, or rented from local equipment yards. Because professional sets can be expensive, many DIYers choose to rent them for single-use projects.

Where to Buy

National Retailers: Stores like Home Depot carry individual stamps and “floppy” mats for edges, often ranging from approximately $31 to over $250.
Specialty Suppliers: Companies such as GlobMarble, Walttools, and Brickform offer a wider range of professional-grade textures like wood grain, ashlar slate, and flagstone.
Online Marketplaces: You can find smaller molds and specialized patterns on platforms like Amazon or through distributors like Metropolitan Materials.

Where to Rent

Renting is a cost-effective option for large projects that require a full set of interlocking mats.

Local Supply Yards: Many decorative concrete supply stores, such as

BC Decorative Concrete Supply or Texas Stamp Concrete Supply, offer rental programs for their stamps and equipment.

Specialty Rental Shops: Companies like Handy Rents

and Sealant Depot provide walk-throughs and advice for first-time users renting their molds.

How do you go about building a retaining wall?

Retaining walls can be built out of almost anything, including bricks, fancy interlocking blocks, field rocks, old railroad ties, or even broken pieces of concrete. What material you choose reflects how formal or informal you want it to be. If the wall is going to be higher than 4 feet, you should get professional advice because you do not want it collapsing on someone. But for smaller walls, tilt the wall back slightly as you build up, and keep filling in behind it with dirt. But before you even begin, remember the most important aspect of the wall construction: drainage. Unless you live in near-desert conditions, put a perforated drain line behind the retaining wall near the bottom. Slope it to carry water away. Next, be sure to put weep holes, usually made from ½-inch plastic pipe, near the bottom so water can escape that way too. Add more weep holes higher up if the wall is over 2 feet high.

Doors and Windows

How do I choose between wood, vinyl, or metal windows?

Windows are made from wood, vinyl, metal, or a combination of all. There are all-wood windows, vinyl-clad wood windows, aluminum-clad wood, all-aluminum, all-vinyl, fiberglass, and steel. Each has positive qualities and drawbacks:

Wood: Widely considered the best because of its strength, insulating qualities, and because it can be painted or stained. However, it will expand or contract in wet and dry weather, sometimes causing a window to stick. The wood must be regularly painted to preserve it.
Vinyl-clad wood: Generally, more expensive than all wood, it combines wood with a vinyl exterior that is highly resistant to weather damage. Inside, the wood is exposed for painting or staining. The exterior vinyl usually comes only in white or brown. In extremely cold areas, the vinyl will be brittle.
Aluminum-clad wood: Like vinyl-clad, it offers an aluminum exterior for weather protection and exposed wood inside. Aluminum will eventually corrode, and will do so quickly in a salt air environment.
All-aluminum: Inexpensive windows, generally. The exterior is often anodized to resist corrosion, but will corrode eventually. Automobile wax helps prevent this. These windows have no thermal insulating qualities.
Vinyl: Generally used as replacement windows because they are made by local firms to fit your existing window opening. Quality can vary dramatically. Vinyl is brittle in extremely cold climates.
Fiberglass: Strong and efficient, it readily withstands heat and cold, and can be painted.
Steel: More commonly found in older windows. No insulating values, and subject to rust. Must be painted regularly.

The big advantage of vinyl windows is that they are made specifically for your home, your window openings. This is generally not true of wood windows. Instead, they are made in a variety of stock sizes. For new construction, this is no problem; you choose the window style and size you want and the builder frames the rough window opening appropriately. But for replacement wood windows, you find the closest fit and then shim and trim to make them work.

How can I tell which brand of windows is the best?

There is no central organization that ranks window manufacturers or window construction quality. But here are some key items to consider when buying:

Appearance: style, size, shape, frame materials.
Function: operating type, thermal qualities, sound resistance.
Energy performance: basic energy properties, heating and cooling qualities.
Price: cost of purchase and installation, annual maintenance.
Durability: warranties.

There are also various agencies that keep tabs on how the glass in the window performs. One is the Insulating Glass Certification Council, which tests the durability of glass that manufacturers use. The IGCC rates durability by designating one of four categories: “CBA,” “CB,” “C,” or unrated. The “CBA” rating is the highest. If a window dealer has unrated windows, you are not getting the best grade of insulated glass.

Another organization is the National Fenestration Council, which seeks to provide accurate information on measuring and comparing window energy performances. If a window has been through NFC screening, it will bear a label that rates the following:

U-factor, or how well the window keeps heat inside the home.
Solar heat gain, or the window’s ability to resist warming from sunlight.
Visible light transmittance, or how much light passes through the glass.

What about warranties on windows? Are they all the same?

No, they are not. Some window manufacturers offer a 10- or 20-year “seal failure” warranty, which may cover only the material costs. You would pay for labor. Look for warranties on both material and labor, including coming to your house to make the repair, rather than you taking the window to them.

Whatever window you choose to install, be sure the manufacturing company has been in business awhile. There have been many companies over the years offering “lifetime” warranties that went out of business. Consequently, the warranty was useless.

Electrical and Lighting

I have an old house with only two wires coming to each outlet and switch, and no ground. Can I ground this system?

Yes, in one of several ways. The simplest method is to add a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) at the beginning of each circuit. Find the first receptacle in the circuit (the one first in line from the breaker or fuse panel) and hook it to the “line” side of the GFCI. Then connect the wire going to the remaining outlets on that circuit to the “load” side of the device. Now you can replace all the remaining outlets on that circuit with regular three-prong grounded outlets. These work well for all outlets except for major appliances like refrigerators.

If you have metal armored cable that contains the wires to the box, you can install three-prong receptacles and ground them in the following manner. First, with the power disconnected, replace the two-prong outlets with three-prong. Connect a green jumper wire (which you can buy with a screw already mounted in it at hardware stores) from the green grounding nut on the new receptacle to the box. Screw the jumper wire into the 10/32 threaded hole in the box. Make sure the armored cable is firmly attached by a metal clamp inside the box. If the box has no threaded hole, you will have to drill a hole only slightly smaller than the screw and drive the screw in tight.

If the wires are not in armored cable, you cannot ground them according to code. Use the GFCI as detailed above.

I am adding a dishwasher to my older home. Does it need its own circuit or can I just connect it to the existing wiring above the countertop?

A dishwasher should have its own circuit, separate from the two individual appliance circuits that should be above your countertop. Although you may see dishwashers connected to existing wiring in older homes, the problem really lies in the breaker or fuse. In older homes, the breaker or fuse may not be as functional as current ones. Thus, if your dishwasher overloads the circuit, the older breaker or fuse may not pop, and your wiring will heat up to dangerous levels.

Can I add a phone line to my house by myself?

You can install two separate phone lines from your existing wiring if you already have relatively modern telephone wiring. Phone wiring is low voltage, but if the phone rings while you are holding a wire, you will get a jolt. So go outside to the phone service box, open the right-hand side, and disconnect line one and line two. Next, remove the cover on the phone jack in your house and look at the wires. If you have at least four wires visible, you can add a second line.

On older systems, you should see a black, yellow, green, and red wire. Line one uses green and red; line two is black and yellow. The wires in the jack are probably already connected. If not, strip off a half inch of the plastic coating on the end of the unconnected wires and fasten them under the two unused screws. (If your phone doesn’t work later, just reverse the two wires.) Purchase a splitter and a phone cord that has at least four wires in it—red, green, black, and yellow—at your local phone store. Connect the outside wires again, then plug the splitter into the jack and the two phone cords into the splitter. Now call the phone company and tell them you are ready for a second line.

If you have newer phone lines, you will see the following wires: blue and blue stripe (line one), orange and orange stripe (line two), green and green stripe, and black and black stripe, which are extra pairs. In this case follow this color code system: blue wire to red terminal and blue stripe to green terminal for line one. (That should be in place already.) For line two, connect the orange wire to the yellow terminal and the orange striped wire to the black terminal.

How can I remove a stuck and broken lightbulb?

First, unplug the lamp from the receptacle or, if a ceiling fixture, make sure the switch is off. Usually, you can grasp the broken lightbulb base with a pair of needle nose pliers and turn it to remove it. If the bulb is stuck, push the end of a potato into the socket and turn it out that way.

I want to install a new light switch. Does it matter which wire goes to which screw? I thought the hot wire went to the gold screw and the neutral wire to the silver screw.

You are confusing a receptacle with a switch. Before working on a receptacle or switch, make sure the power to that area is completely off. On receptacles—not switches—the black (hot) wire goes to the gold screw and the white (neutral) wire goes to the silver. There should be a third (green) screw for the bare copper grounding wire.

Switches that control one light are called single pole switches. They have only two screws, and it doesn’t matter which wire goes to which screw. (Older wiring may have only two wires, both in black fabric.)

A three-way switch, however, is different. (See below for further explanation.)

I want a switch at the top and bottom of the stairs to control one light. How do I do this?

Three-way switches that control a light fixture from two different locations are always used in pairs, such as at each end of a room with two exits or at the top and bottom of stairs. Each switch is readily identifiable by its three screws and because it has no on/off lettering on the switch. Two of the screws are either brass or silver colored, and the third is black or copper colored. Using them requires what is called three-wire cable plus a ground. You cannot use two-wire with a ground, commonly called by its trade name, Romex, for this purpose. The wiring is more complex and requires the novice to follow diagrams.

What’s a “switch loop” and how does it work?

In a switch loop, the hot and neutral wires arrive at the light fixture before reaching the switch. If you simply connected the wires from the light to the switch, the light would always be on. To make a switch loop, connect the incoming hot (black) wire to the white neutral wire that runs to the switch. Mark the white wire at each end with black tape or black paint to indicate it is hot. Now the incoming white neutral wire is attached to the light fixture, as usual, and the black wire from the switch is connected to the light fixture. In this way, the hot wire initially bypasses the fixture, then loops through the switch and back to the fixture.

Why does my smoke alarm keep beeping?

If the beep is every few minutes, your battery is probably running low. If it’s a photoelectric design, you also could have a bit of dust and dirt in the unit, which might cause a malfunction. Clean it and check the battery.

My kitchen range is wired with aluminum wire and is connected directly to the house’s copper electrical wire. Is this safe? What’s the problem with aluminum wire?

The main problem with aluminum wiring is that it expands and contracts more than copper. If you have a loose connection, there is greater chance for electrical arcing, heat buildup, and possibly fire. Aluminum cable is still used quite frequently in sizes 6 and larger. The thing to look for (with the power off) is that the lugs (terminals) connecting the aluminum wire to the copper are suitable for copper or aluminum. They should bear the letters “cu/al.” If the lugs are copper only, replace them. The ends of aluminum wires should be dipped in Penetrox, an antioxidant compound, before being attached to the copper wire in the cu/al lug.

I want to connect a new ceiling fan, but there are only two wires and a ground wire coming out of the ceiling. But my fan has a black, white, and a red wire. What is the red for?

The red wire allows you to turn on the fan without the lights, or the lights without the fan, assuming you have a stacked switch with the fan. To make this work right, you would need three wires (black, white, and red, plus ground) from the ceiling fixture down to the switch. But since you only have two wires in your ceiling box, the wall switch will turn on both lights and fan together. You can attach a chain beneath the fan to control the lights or fan separately, if you wish.

Two of the four outlets in my bedroom won’t work. What’s up?

Turn the circuit off and inspect each receptacle. Receptacles are often wired with the push-in method in the backs of them rather than using screws. Wires connected by the push-in method can become loose. Remove the wires from the back and attach them to the receptacle screws. If that doesn’t work, try new receptacles.

How can I stop my fluorescent lights from buzzing?

The buzz is caused by the ballast (transformer) in the lighting fixture. Most residential fixtures use magnetic ballasts that operate at 60 hertz, which creates audible humming and flickering. Your solution is to replace the magnetic ballast with electronic ballast, which operates at 20,000 to 40,000 hertz—essentially continuously. This completely eliminates humming and flickering.

The electronic ballasts only work with the new thinner diameter fluorescent tubes, called T-8s.

If you convert your fixture to electronic ballasts and T-8 lamps, you will notice a huge improvement in quality. No more humming and flickering—and much better color rendition from the higher quality T-8s.

My fluorescent bulbs are dim and won’t get brighter. Why?

If you are sure that the lamps are good, then check to see if the two incoming wires, black and white, are making a good connection. First, turn off the power to that light, and then remove the cover in the center of the fixture. If the connections are tight and the lights still don’t work properly, you will need to replace the ballast. That’s the black rectangular box with probably six wires coming out of it. Basically, you will just cut the wires off the old ballast and connect the wires from the new one with wire nuts. Just match the colors. You can get ballasts and small wire nuts at any home improvement store.

Flooring

What is the best kind of flooring to choose?

Your flooring choice will depend on your preferences, your budget, and where you are going to install it. Here are some of the main choices:

Vinyl tile squares: The least expensive type of flooring, vinyl tile comes in a wide variety of colors and patterns. Because it is impervious to water, relatively easy to clean, and quick to install, it is commonly put down in kitchens and bathrooms. As vinyl tile gets old it tends to fade and discolor. It is easily scratched or cut, but individual squares can be removed and replaced.
Vinyl sheet: Prices range significantly depending on quality. Vinyl sheet flooring is often selected because of attractive patterns and because it covers a large area with no risk of individual tiles working loose at the edges. It is impervious to water but can be cut or scratched easily.
Laminates: Laminate flooring is constructed of several layers of plastic-type resins compressed under high pressure to a hard fiber or particleboard core, with melamine backing and printed surface. It can be made to appear like different types of wood flooring or even marble and flagstone. It is put together in tongue and groove fashion and is not attached to the subfloor as are standard hardwoods. Many carry a 10 year or more warranty against staining or fading. There is some difference of opinion, even among experts, about whether to use laminate in a place where it will get wet.
Ceramic tile: Wide range in costs depending on quality, color, and material. It wears well and is not easily stained. Because it also repels water if the grout is sealed properly, it is widely used for entryways, kitchens, and baths. If installed over wood, it must have solid underlayment that will not flex and subsequently crack the tile. Installing a solid underlayment, however, may raise the finished floor higher than adjacent flooring, causing an uneven transition unless calculated in advance.
Hardwoods: Hardwood floors cover the spectrum in color, types of wood, style, and price. They may range from traditional tongue and groove lengths to parquet squares. Hardwood floors are labor intensive and often complex to install. They require sanding and staining to finish and constant upkeep, but are widely considered among the most elegant of floors. Properly maintained, they can last for many decades.

Can I install flooring over the concrete floor in my basement?

You can put down any type of flooring, including vinyl, ceramic tile, hardwoods, or carpet over a concrete floor if you take necessary precautions. Basement floors are notorious for becoming damp, and moisture will ruin a floor.

Hardwoods: The ideal way to put down a hardwood floor over concrete is to first cover the floor with 6-millimeter plastic, then lay down 5/8-inch plywood, cover that with 15-pound roofing felt, and then your hardwood.
Carpet: Carpet can be laid in the same manner.
Vinyl tile: For vinyl tile, skip the 15-pound felt and apply mastic directly to the plywood.
Ceramic tile: For ceramic tile, nail cement boards to the concrete floor with concrete nails so they won’t move, then apply mastic, tile, and grout. If you feel that despite all precautions the basement floor may get wet, put down 2-by-2 sleepers on the plastic and then install the plywood, which will space the floor away from possible leaks.
Laminate: These are floating floors, meaning they are not attached to the subfloor. They are tongue and groove and can be laid down on concrete once the manufacturer’s padding is in place, which serves as a moisture barrier.

Can I lay new ceramic or vinyl tile over the original one?

Yes, if the old tile or vinyl is smooth and in good shape, as well as the subfloor. But that will raise the floor slightly, which can cause other problems from fitting around a toilet to doors closing properly. It’s much better to remove the old floor, inspect and smooth the old subfloor, and then put down the new floor.

How can I remove pet stains and odors from my flooring?

If a pet stain has soaked into a hardwood floor, it may not come out. You can try sanding it down and then refinishing the damaged area. If that doesn’t work, replace that section. If there are pet stains and odors in the carpet, there are several products on the market that might work. Check with a pet store in your area for products containing enzymes to break down the proteins in pet stains. If this doesn’t do the trick, you can rent a steam cleaner to go over the carpets. Often the offensive odor is trapped in the carpet pad, which means you will have to pull back the carpet and replace that section of padding. Check if the subfloor is also harboring odor.

What type of subflooring is best?

It depends on what type of finished floor you will have. Most subflooring in wood frame construction today is either oriented strand board (OSB) or plywood. Older homes may have boards laid diagonally across the floor joists. The subfloor thickness depends on the construction design—namely the distance between the floor joists, which is specified in the plans. Plywood is less affected by rain during construction and holds nails and screws better than OSB, but OSB is usually less expensive.

Wood flooring and carpet can be installed directly on the subfloor. Any irregularity in a subfloor will be visible through vinyl flooring, so it is normally installed over particleboard that has the cracks and nail holes smoothed with spackle. Ceramic tile, marble, and other stone floors must be laid over a rigid floor that will not flex and crack the tile or grout. Preferred subfloors in these cases are a mortar bed or cement board.

My concrete slab floor needs to be leveled. What can I do?

If you need to level a concrete floor or patio to install flooring, you should be able to find a leveling compound, much like a soupy mortar mix, at your local home improvement center or flooring supply company. If the concrete has wide cracks, broken pieces, and shows signs of sinking, this indicates a major problem and you should consult a concrete contractor or even a structural engineer.

The seams on my vinyl floor are coming up. What should I do?

If it is a new floor, contact your contractor. On an older floor, heat the seams with a blow dryer or steam iron placed on a towel so you can pull them back to expose the subfloor. Clean any dirt from the area, make sure the subfloor is dry, then apply a thin layer of vinyl mastic to the floor and press the seams back down. Place wax paper over it in case the mastic is forced out of the seams and then weight the area down overnight.

How can I get that polished look to concrete?

This requires labor-intensive work and careful timing. First the concrete is leveled, then bull floated to bring the cream to the top. When the water sheen has disappeared, you must begin repeatedly troweling the slab with a flat, rectangular trowel. Repeated troweling on firm yet still wet concrete gives it the polished finish. You kneel on a square of plywood while doing this and step to a second square of plywood when you must move. And you must move quickly before the concrete sets too firmly. In other words, this is usually a job for an experienced professional.

How can I fix my squeaky floors?

Wood flexing and rubbing either in the subfloor or the hardwood floor causes squeaks. If there is a crawl space or basement, have someone step on the squeaky area while you pinpoint it from underneath. Then hammer in a thin wood shim between the floor joist and the squeak. If that doesn’t stop it, you can try running a screw through the subfloor up into the planking above to draw it down tight. Be careful not to go through the planking. If there is no access from below, you may have to pull up the flooring, screw down the subfloor, and then replace the flooring.

Roofs and Siding

How do I find a roof leak?

Often this is very difficult because water has a tricky way of traveling a long way from the source before you see it. If water puddles around a particular window only when the wind is blowing rain against it, you have a likely culprit. If the leak is coming down a wall from the ceiling, start looking up. Go into the attic space with a strong flashlight and backtrack from the spot above the ceiling toward the roof. Check both sides of rafters because water may run down them to the wall. Look carefully around all vent pipes going through the roof and around the chimney, if you have one. When the rain stops, inspect the roof from the ground with a pair of binoculars. If you feel comfortable, go on the roof, but wear proper fall restraint equipment. Look for missing shingles or water pooling in certain areas. Leaks often begin around flashing or where two roofs join, particularly if one was added on later. If the valley is clogged with leaves, water can back up beyond the valley flashing and penetrate the roof. This can also happen if the valley is too narrow for the amount of water running down it. You can sometimes narrow the search by running a hose over the suspect area to see if the leak resumes. If it is a leak during winter in cold climates, ice dams along the eaves can force melting snow to back up under the shingles and into the house.

What’s involved in converting my flat-roofed house to a pitched roof?

Converting a flat roof to a pitched roof is a major undertaking that requires skilled carpenters and roofers. Anyone contemplating this should weigh the pros and cons: Is the new roof just for esthetic value, or would it serve a real purpose? Can you readily afford it? The pitched roof will make the house cooler and will provide additional storage area between it and the flat roof.

What are the pros and cons of composition shingle roofs versus metal roofs?

Both roof types come in many styles and colors. Metal is more fire resistant than composition or wood roofing and can be applied more quickly. Metal roofs can usually be installed right over the old roof. Some are guaranteed for 50 years or more. Metal roofs are more expensive and are easily damaged if walked on incorrectly. Composition shingles come in several different grades, which are judged by the guaranteed lifetime, usually 20, 30, or 40 years. The longer-lasting shingles are thicker and their shaped appearance makes a more attractive roof.

Can I put siding over the existing shingles on my house?

The problem with installing siding, particularly vinyl siding, over wood shingles or other wood siding is that it does not breathe, while the wood underneath does. That causes the wood underneath to absorb moisture and ultimately decay. You would be better off to strip the shingle siding and repair any damage, or add additional bracing, before putting up the new siding.

How many layers of covering are permitted on my roof?

Generally, three layers on a roof are the maximum. Check your local building codes. But if you have two layers and are thinking of adding a third, consider that extra layers add significant weight, will create trouble with nails backing out on the underlying layer, and that it will be difficult to seat the nails properly on the new layer. It also might void your warranty.

Aluminum, vinyl, or natural siding: What are the pros and cons of each?

Aluminum siding dents easily, is difficult to find, and costs more to purchase and to install. Vinyl siding is the least expensive, lasts a long time, looks nice, and has virtually no maintenance. But it can cause moisture and decay problems when improperly applied over wood. Natural siding, such as wood, brick, and stone, varies widely in price according to your choice. It takes more maintenance but lasts the longest if painted and maintained.

Which are better roof vents, continuous ridge or box vents?

Roofing manufacturers’ warranties require a minimum of 1 square foot of ventilation for every 150 square feet of attic space for traditional systems, but only 1 square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet when the ridge vent system is used. That is a good indication of the difference in efficiency. There are many good ridge vents on the market, and the continuous vent, as opposed to the individual roof vent, is the most effective. Continuous ridge vents allow hot air to readily escape from the roof peak. Most manufacturers now use a durable plastic, or aluminum, to avoid rust. If using plastic in cold climates, make sure it is rated to withstand subfreezing temperatures.

How can I tell whether it’s time for a new roof?

Leaks from an old roof are good indicators, as are worn, battered, or missing shakes or shingles. If the fine gravel embedded in composition shingles is missing, or piling up in the rain gutter, it is time. On flat tar and gravel roofs, look for bubbles in the tar and shrinkage near roof vents. Old shake roofs may have pieces missing, particularly along the ridges.

Can I paint vinyl siding?

Not effectively. It can be painted, but the paint will crack as the vinyl expands and contracts with temperature changes.

Structural Issues

How can I determine if a wall is load bearing?

A load bearing wall bears part of the structural load of the building. Exterior walls with rafter ends resting on them are load bearing. Depending on the type of construction, this could be only two walls, as with a gable roof, or all exterior walls, as with a hip roof. Interior walls may or may not be load bearing. You have to do a little searching. From an attic space, find where the ceiling joists overlap or are butted together. This shows that the weight of the joists is being borne by that wall. From a crawl space underneath, look for a double floor joist, which is required under load bearing walls. If in doubt, ask a contractor or structural engineer to check it for you.

My foundation has begun to cave in. What should I do?

If a foundation is sinking or caving in it is imperative to call a structural engineer to evaluate the situation. Once the cause is found the engineer can probably recommend a solution.

How deep should the footings be on an addition I am building on my house?

The depth of footings and design of a foundation depend on the size of the structure, frost levels in the ground, and soil composition. You must check with your building inspector’s office for local requirements, but generally the footings must be below the frost level in the ground and must be constructed either on undisturbed soil or fill dirt that has been properly compacted. If you are going to build the addition yourself, you must submit plans to the building inspector for approval before you begin and complete all the required inspections as you build it.

Why is my house tipping to one side? Why is the concrete slab I had poured six months ago now cracking?

The chief reason for a sinking foundation, cracked slab, or cracked foundation wall is soil movement. Earth can sink under a foundation for several reasons, including insufficient compacting and voids being created by underground water flows. Conversely, certain soils become so expansive when wet that they swell enough to lift and crack a foundation. Cracks can also be caused by incorrect cement mixture, lack of sufficient reinforcing wire or bars, or poor site preparation. If it’s a new foundation, call the contractor and say you want it done right. Before it’s over, you may end up calling a soil engineer and structural engineer.

Some floor joists under my house are rotted. What should I do?

If you can push a screwdriver tip half an inch or so into wood, that indicates it has some kind of rot problem. Moisture, dry rot, termites, powder post beetles, or just some bad wood could cause it. If there are signs of moisture, ranging from stains to dampness, find and resolve that problem first. The same goes if caused by pests. To replace a joist or rafter, cut out the bad section in the middle, then hammer a new equivalent sized board in beside it, with each end resting on a sill or a beam. Nail the remaining lengths of joist or rafter to the new one. If the rotted area has been treated and is not further damaging the joist, sandwich it between two lengths of half-inch plywood with bolts extending through the joist. Unless you are quite skilled at carpentry, call a contractor to handle all this.

What is the best material to wrap a house in, plastic or black felt roofing paper?

For many years 15-pound felt was the standard, but newer products such as Tyvek are now widely used. It is more expensive but is a better wind barrier and does not tear as easily. Its pores are small enough to keep out air, but large enough to allow moisture to pass through, thus preventing moisture buildup in the walls. As with all house wraps, the seal must be complete and tight, with no leakage.

How do you compare metal studs to wood for framing a house?

The chief problem with using steel for residential construction is that not enough people are skilled at cutting and erecting it. Additionally, it is more expensive than wood. And the labor to erect a steel-framed house will be more expensive, if you can find the workers. Steel has many advantages, though. Each stud is perfectly straight, which makes it easier to construct straight and smooth walls. It is stronger than wood, doesn’t rot, and is fire resistant. But you can’t pound nails into a wall over a steel stud to hang a picture; you have to drive a screw.

What size glue laminate beam should I use?

To know what size laminate beam (or steel beam) to use, the specifications need to be worked out by a structural engineer. If you are making a change to an existing home, this step is a must to satisfy building codes and to prevent liability when you sell the property. If you are building a new home, the size should be indicated in the plans and specifications.

Permits and Codes

Do I need a building permit, and if so, why?

All states, counties, cities, and towns may have different construction rules, which a builder must understand and follow after obtaining the permit. Sometimes the idea of getting a fence permit seems ludicrous. But remember that the building inspection department is basically looking out for your safety. Every time there is a major disaster such as a hurricane or an earthquake, the building inspectors review damage and devise ways so as to minimize property damage in the future. Open any codebook and you’ll find tables detailing how many and what type of nails to use in each and every connection. Had these instructions been adhered to, some of those houses in Florida that “just blew apart” during hurricane Andrew might still be standing. All the code requirements that you must follow when you get a permit deal with structural issues, lighting, plumbing, and on and on. Although very detailed and sometimes tedious to follow, they just may save your life one day. Many inspection departments also review products for their insulation value in an effort to save you money and conserve energy. They also review a product’s durability. To sum up, a permit is usually required to ensure that the work done is being done properly.

What kind of inspections can I expect in building a house?

In general, you need a foundation inspection, a framing inspection, a rough and finish electrical inspection, a rough and finish plumbing/gas inspection, and a final inspection. Some jurisdictions will not issue you a certificate of occupancy until you pass the final one. Call your local building office.

Where do I get permits?

You should contact your local building/zoning/development department and see what requirements they have for obtaining permits. Some may require architects’ drawings; others may allow draftsman or builders’ drawings.

What are easements?

An easement is the right to use and access your property. It may be deeded or implied. Most typically, easement holders are public utilities, but they can also be highway departments that may have an easement across the front of your property, power companies that have an easement to dig up and service underground electrical supplies to your house, or gas companies to service similar areas. They can even be railroad tracks, power company high tension wires, etc. Easements can also be granted for ingress and egress across your property for a neighboring lot that has no other access to a public road but through your lot. If added to your deed, such easements generally become permanent. If they exist as part of a lot you are considering purchasing, they can rarely be undone.